Cheese and Wine
Finding the perfect balance
From Wine Spectator magazine
Cheese and wine have long stood at the top of the gourmet pyramid. They have much in common. Like wine, cheese is the product of a fermentation that creates something entirely different and infinitely more complex than the raw material. Like wine, cheese ages until it reaches a point of perfection, then goes downhill. Like wine, cheese comes in a wide range of styles, each with its own set of characteristics, and it tastes of terroir. France, Italy, Spain and other countries have appellations of origin for cheese, just as they do for wine. Farmstead cheese—made from the milk of the cheesemaker’s own animals—is comparable to estate-bottled wine made from the winemaker’s own grapes. Artisanal cheesemakers buy top-quality milk to handcraft their products, just as quality-oriented négociants use grapes bought from serious growers.
Today, high quality cheeses are more broadly available than ever. Excellent versions of Old World classics such as Roquefort and Parmigiano- Reggiano are supplemented by more obscure varieties from Europe and elsewhere. And the United States now produces handcrafted cheeses that rival the quality of the very best.
Cheesemaking processes vary, but nearly all include the following steps. Milk is soured, then curdled to separate the solids from the whey. The whey is drained from the curds, which are then cut, pressed or heated to expel liquid—the more liquid is expelled, the denser the final cheese will be. Salting, washing and shaping are done in many ways, but all affect the texture and flavor of the cheese. Finally, most cheeses are aged, even if just briefly. Every stage is important, but many consider aging to be the most crucial in terms of developing the character that sets the best cheeses apart.
Blue Cheeses and Wine
Many people find that the moldy flavors of these cheeses fight with dry wines. Their creaminess is especially tough on reds. Sweet wines are the answer. Try Sauternes with Roquefort and Port with Stilton. The nutty taste of oak found in these wines is especially welcome with blue cheeses.
Extreme Cheeses and Wine
As much fun as these cheeses are to eat, in most cases only very sweet or fortified wines can hold their own against them. An oloroso Sherry can cut through the nose on Livarot or aged Muenster, while the rich sweetness of Sauternes and Hungarian Tokaji will assert itself through the pungency of Époisses and Stanser Scafchäse. Extreme cheeses with musky spices, peppers, herbs and smoke make for tricky wine matching, although cheeses flavored with mushrooms and truffles often cozy up nicely to earthy white wines such as Savennières, Burgundy and white Rhônes.
Goat & Sheep Cheeses and Wine
Goat cheeses, especially young acidic ones, cry out for crisp, young whites such as Sauvignon Blanc–based wines from Sancerre, Pouilly-Fumé, New Zealand and, sometimes, California. Chablis also performs well. Harder, more mature goat cheeses and tangy sheep cheeses such as Pecorino have an affinity for lively young reds such as those made from Sangiovese in Tuscany or Zinfandel in California.
Hard Cheeses and Wine
The cheeses in this group match with a greater range of wines—whites and reds—than those of any other cheese category. Their firm consistency does not leave a trail of mouthcoating butterfat, and their deeper, more mature flavors can sometimes work well with powerful and complex reds. Hard cheeses are usually the best choice for finishing a special bottle of red left over from a main course.
Soft Cheeses and Wine
The mouthcoating texture of soft cheeses can make red wines taste thin and tough, but the sparkle of Champagne cuts through beautifully. Crisp, aromatic whites such as German or Austrian Riesling also do well, especially if they have a bit of sweetness.